"How to" Epoxy Resin Videos

FAQ Epoxy Art Resin for Artists

Q: What is the best epoxy for my project?

A: Epoxy selection depends on the thickness and mass desired. Most art resin and tabletop epoxy is designed to cure more quickly and should be limited to ¼” or less. Casting and deep pour epoxies are made to be poured thicker. These epoxies can be divided into a few different categories. Mid depth low volume, mid-depth high volume, and deep pours. Selecting the correct epoxy will assure an optimal outcome.

Q: How much epoxy do I need for my project?

A: Typically, countertop can be estimated in sq ft. It is essential to get proper coverage and not be too thin. Generally, these epoxies net 25 sq ft of coverage per gallon. Casting and deep pour epoxies will net 231 cubic inches per gallon. This calculation can be made by figuring the surface area multiplied by the average depth.

Q: How can I tell if I have enough epoxy on my counter or table?

A: If you followed the recommendation of 25 sq ft coverage per gallon then you most likely have enough epoxy however after you torch the epoxy look at the reflection of the ceiling in it and look for any deflection. The epoxy should be glass smooth and if any waves show add some to the area and retorch.

Q: Can I recoat or add a second coat to epoxy?

A: Yes, generally epoxy can be multilayered to achieve depth, encapsulate color, or even recolor or renew an older project. On a multilayer pour you can wait until the epoxy is at least tacked which generally on art resin is about 4 to 5 hours and pour directly on top. Counters and tables can generally take a second coat the following day; check and make sure there isn’t any bubbling or debris in the epoxy and sand lightly if there is. Older jobs should be sanded with 400 grit and cleaned thoroughly with Windex before recoating.

Q: Should I prime (seal) my wood before applying epoxy?

A: Yes, definitely. Wood is porous and will absorb epoxy that will lead to outgassing. Many people use a thinned down epoxy, a fast set epoxy or our 2112 urethane. We advise the use of 2112 as a wood primer due to its great sealing properties and short dry times.

Q: I have a few tacky spots? What happened and what can I do?

A: Tacky spots are generally a bit of the epoxy resin that wasn’t modified by the hardener due to improper mixing. Mixing epoxy is much easier when the epoxy is warmed to at least 75 degrees or warmer. If you do have a tacky spot in an inconspicuous area it can be repaired but the uncured epoxy must be removed. Use xylene or denatured alcohol poured on a rag to remove the tack spots. It may take a few times to get it all. After that tape off directly around the spot leaving about 1/16” showing to be able to see the level of the epoxy and use a pencil to drip epoxy into the affected area. Lightly pass a torch and check the level to be sure it is the same as the epoxy around it. You can add or remove epoxy from the area as necessary. If there are multiple spots or the repair is noticeable it may be easier to redo the epoxy on that entire piece.

Q: Can I store mixed epoxy for another job?

A: No, once mixed the epoxy must be used before the chemical reaction has occurred. You can always have a few molds laying around to fill with leftover or pour it on some plastic for fun shapes you can use in other projects.

Q: Can I do epoxy art on canvas?

A: Yes, epoxy is wonderful for canvas art pieces. It is advisable to prepare your canvas with a primer to prevent penetration. We recommend the single mart Metal Illusion primer which comes in black or white and can be tinted with iCoat Dispersion colors if desired. Remember your canvas will stretch a bit when epoxy is added so it is advisable to put in a piece of plywood or foam underneath to support the canvas flat so the epoxy won’t run to the middle. Level tables are important.

Q: Can I put epoxy over something I painted?

A: Yes, most paints will not be damaged by epoxy. Try a small area if it’s a new kind of medium

Q: Can I epoxy over a sticker, picture, or decal?

A: Yes, it is important to make sure your item is glued down completely without voids. Pictures can be applied with contact cement. Use a plastic squeegee to remove air bubbles and make sure the epoxy is applied thick enough for excellent coverage.

Q: Is there a difference between Epoxy made in the USA and China?

A: Yes there is, if the environment is important to you then that should be concern #1, countries like China do not follow the same strict guidelines for chemical companies the way the USA does, so you can guarantee that in China there is a detrimental effect on the earth. As for quality, it is night and day. Not only do USA-made epoxies have more quality control and that means, better resistance to ambering, heat, soft spots, and UV damage, it cures better and is more stable. We have heard reports from customers who tried the cheap epoxy from China and broke out into rashes using it. Plus, think of how old the product being imported is, even before you get to apply it to your job, it sits on trains, trucks, docks, ships, and in customs at ports for months. Generally, the USA made epoxy for US-based customers is the freshest and that means better results.

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Artist Resin is 100% non-toxic (when used as directed). Unlike other resins, it is safe for your health. Zero VOCs. Zero fumes. No solvents. Non-flammable and non-hazardous. Conforms to ASTM D4236 (100% Safe for home use when used in well-ventilated areas).

iCoat Art Resin is manufactured in an environmentally sound plant in the USA, not China. It is engineered to last a long time. The only 30-Year resin. Non-yellowing protection with patented stabilization additives that provide long-term clarity and unmatched reliability.

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